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Alumkadavu
Gliding along the calm and sere ne
backwaters flanked by green leaves and palms, seeing a rural
Kerala preserved through the ages and completely hidden from the
road is an enchanting experience to any visitor, more so while
sailing a slow-moving, spacious Kettuvallam. Alumkadavu, a quiet
spot in the town of Karunagapally - hardly 23 kms. north of
Quilon (travel time: 30 min) has become a hot point of
Kettuvallam building, with more than a hundred people involved.
These huge, long and tapering barges were traditionally used to
move tones of goods across kingdoms, with a portion covered with
bamboo and coir serving as a rest room and kitchen for the crew.
A familiar sight on the waters, these vessels are built entirely
without using nails.
Planks of jack wood are joined together with coir rope and
coated with a caustic black resin made from boiled cashew
kernels. With careful maintenance they last for generations.
Today, widely and appropriately called houseboats, they carry
furnished bedrooms, modern toilets, cozy living rooms, a kitchen
and even a balcony for angling. Some are powered by a 40 HP
engine. At Alumkadavu, you can even find a floating conference
hall, designed to seat 35, with a dais and a sophisticated
public address system.
Calicut
Up north in K erala,
the meandering backwaters of Calicut (Kozhikode) lie waiting to
be discovered. With a bewitching beauty of its own. North
east of the city, Elathur offers an ideal jump-off base into the
Canoly Canal - a name taken after its British builder and
administrator. The canal links itself to the Kallai River which
unhurriedly threads through the city and offers its shores to
Calicut’s historic timber trade. The produce of which is
believed to have even adorned the courts of King Solomon and
Queen Sheba a few millennia ago. Further south lies
Kadalundi with its charming bird sanctuary - haven to an amazing
assortment of delightful water birds. Another river of the
region - Korapuzha - is fast gaining popularity as the venue of
the water sports festival - the Korapuzha Jalotsavam - staged
every August.
Kumarakom
At Kumarakom, you could sail the backwaters in rented
houseboats, which are poled by local oarsmen and are simply
furnished with a living room, a bedroom and bath, together with
a raised
central
platform creating a private sit-out for the passengers. Sections
of the curved roof of wood or plaited palm open out to provide
shade and allow uninterrupted views. Boat trains - formed by
joining two or more houseboats together - make for a convenient
mode of sightseeing when the company is large. You could even
take a canoe out into the quiet lagoons and spend time angling.
Make sure you sample Karimeen and fresh Toddy - the favorite
fresh-water food and the local wine. This is an ideal
place for backwater cruises. A beautiful backwater spot
accessible from Kumarakom is Alleppey. On the shores of
the enchanting Vembanad lake, 14 kilometers from Kottayam
(travel time: 20 min), lies Kumarakom in its small-town hush.
Redolent of restful ease.A boat ride into the countryside offers
a close look into an engaging rustic life. Skiff-fishermen
launching their cockleshell boats. Large flotillas of ducks
waddling down to the water from thatched houses on the banks.
Women, neck-deep in water, with their waist-length hair heaped
in a crown, searching for fish with their feet. A 14 acre bird
sanctuary is situated on the eastern banks of the Vembanad Lake.
The sanctuary adds to the natural beauty of Kumarakom. Birds
(waterfowl, water ducks, cuckoos, wild ducks etc.) nest and
spend happy summers here. Birds like Siberian Storks migrate
here every year. The sanctuary is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Alleppey (Alappuzha) - Kuttanaad
The sweeping network of canals, honey-combing the town of
Alleppey (Alappuzha) has earned for the place its sobriquet -
"The Venice of the East." Small, low-slung country boats are the
taxis of this waterland. It is a heart-warmin g
sight to see them carry a motley assemblage of cycles, goats,
fisherwomen with cane baskets, school children, toddy-tappers
with their knives and pots, duennas in white with gold earrings,
Syrian Christian priests and a bare-chested boatman apiece.
Do not miss out on a ride into Kuttanad through shimmering,
green paddy fields and tail-wagging, head-bobbing groups of
ducks. The coir-workers too present an interesting sight as they
soak coconut fibre in pools, beat them out and weave the tough
brown strands into long ropes on spindles stretched between
endless coconut trees. Alleppey becomes the cynosure of
the eyes of the world in August - September, every year, as it
plays host to the celebrated Snake Boat Races - a water regatta
unique to Kerala.
Quilon (Kollam)
The charming old port city of Quilon (Kollam) on the banks of
the picturesque Ashtamudi Lake is now known
more
as the centre of cashew industry. Traces of a once prosperous
trade with China are still seen in the form of Chinese fishing
nets, huge Chinese water pots, blue and white porcelain and
sampan-like boats. Quilon is an inviting gateway to
Kerala's backwaters. For an interesting backwater experience,
take the regular ferry to Alleppey - a rigorous ride lasting
more than 8 hours. As the old ferry putters from one village on
the waterfront to another, you are treated to a full range of
lives and activities and some of the most beautiful scenery
imaginable. For the less intrepid, shorter cruises can be made
in the larger comforts of the houseboats with idyllic villages
such as Alumkadavu as your launch base. The nearest
airport, Trivandrum, is 71 kms. away. It takes fractionally over
an hour to get to Quilon by road or rail from Trivandrum.
Tourist Village at Akkulam
Akk ulam
is one of the first picnic spots in the suburbs of Trivandrum
City. This place is only 10 kms away from the Central Railway
Station. The spot is developed on the banks of Aakkulam Kayal
(lake), which is an extension of the Veli Kayal (lake). The calm
and serene atmosphere and its unique natural beauty is
fascinating for the tourist. The village consists of the Boat
Club, Swimming Pool, Children's Park, an Anthurium Project and a
Snack Bar.
The Backwaters Treatment
Swaying coconut palms and meandering waterways create a magical
charm to the land. special magic of the backwaters: a great and
glistening web of rivers ,canals, lakes and estuaries where time
flows at a measured pace and yesterday and tomorrow merge into
an ever-lasting , jade-green, today.
The bluish waterways and the green land mélange to create a mood
that begger description. When you first encounter the backwaters
they look unreal: slow flowing watery highways meandering
between palm-hung banks. Clearly, the best way to encounter
these water lands is to hire a houseboat. Thes e
long, broad-beamed, boats were once rice boats carrying mounds
of grain from the Kuttanad , rice bowl of Kerala, to the great
voracious cities. Then a complex of roads feathered out across
the State and the rice boats lost business to the trucks.
This is when the bright entrepreneurs of Kerala said: "Anything
Kashmir can do, we can do better!" They bought rice boats from
the out-of-work owners, made stately rooms, bathrooms,
open-sided lounges, and kitchens, on board; employed the
original owners as captains and crew on their own boats; brought
in a chef and a guide, and were in business
.
You can, for instance, choose either to be part of the scene or,
detachedly, away from it. Your houseboat, except when it ties up
alongside in the firefly haunted night, is never so far away
from the banks that you cannot share, vicariously, in the lives
of the people of the backwaters. Yet, you are never really close
enough to become intimately involved in their trials and
tribulations. You can, with complete freedom, pick and choose
your passing involvement as if you were plugged into a Virtual
Reality experience.
For the passengers, the backwaters' houseboat experience is a
step further on the rejuvenating trail. The environment of
Kerala, the atmosphere of this green State, is therapeutic in
itself. Just being in Kerala, as we've said, is a
health-enhancing experience. But when you experience it in the
peaceful drifting of a houseboat through the backwaters, you're
adding a deep dimension of serenity to your therapy.
Squadrons of brown and white ducks paddle past, arrowing for
little thatched-and-tiled settlements on the palm-shaded
embankments. Women hang out bright pennants of washing while
their husbands, with bare, bronzed, bodies, fish with rod and
line, or flared filigrees of nets, or with bows and harpoon
arrows, or even with spiked bamboo probes, extracting skulking
crabs from water-lapped eaves of the levees.
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